Prepare for Frosty Flip-Flop Winter with Eco-Friendly Insulation

Insulation, Save Money, Weather

According to Farmers’ Almanac (Almanac), we are in for a “Frosty Flip-Flop” winter. The term was inspired by the predicted polar coaster swings in temperatures! With the temperature cooling, it is the perfect time to save money and prepare for the frosty flip-flop winter with eco-friendly insulation. Make your home more energy-efficient by replacing your old insulation one of The Green Cocoon’s eco-friendly insulation.

New Hampshire Known for Crazy Weather

If you live in New Hampshire, you are no stranger to crazy winter weather. According to NOAA’s National Centers for Environmental Information, the coldest temperature on record in New Hampshire (-50°F) was on January 22, 1885. That was at the summit of Mount Washington. Likewise, many winters in New Hampshire bring snow, rain, ice, and chilly temps. So, you need to prepare for that frosty flip-flop winter with eco-friendly insulation.

The Almanac is forecasting a “winter whopper” for parts of the Northeast and Ohio Valley toward the end of February. What does that mean for us this winter? We will experience colder than normal temperatures, and significant precipitation.

Use Eco-Friendly Building Insulation

Many homeowners don’t realize how effective insulation can be at making their homes more comfortable and efficient. Insulation in key areas like the attic, basement, and exterior walls slows heat transfer in and out of the home. This means that in the winter, that valuable heat you’ve paid for stays inside your home, right where you want it. Cellulose and spray foam insulation are especially effective insulation materials.

With the right insulation upgrades, you can expect benefits like:

Fewer drafts and cold spots
Warmer floors
Lower annual heating/cooling costs
Enhanced overall comfort
Greater home energy efficiency
Reduced outside noise

When insulation is paired with proper air sealing to eliminate air leaks, the benefits go even further! So don’t keep throwing your money out the window. The Green Cocoon has eco-friendly building insulation that comes in various forms. We have what you need!

Did You Know? Insulation R-Value Changes

R-Value, Spray Foam

In the world of building construction, improvement, and insulation, we talk about R-value all the time. Usually, we talk about it as if it’s a constant number. We see R-19 stamped right there on the product, so that’s what it is, right? Well, did you know that the insulation R-value changes?

What Is R-Value?

R-value is a measure of resistance to heat flow through a given thickness of material. Furthermore, it is important, but it’s just one of a few key factors that determines the effectiveness of an insulation material. R-value is tested in an air-tight vacuum chamber, which means that typical insulation materials like fiberglass and cellulose do not actually perform with that value unless paired with intense air sealing measures.

^[1]

How Is R-value measured?

Because of scams involving R-value claims that didn’t match reality, the U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) devised the R-value Rule to protect buyers of insulating products. In fact, in 2013 the FTC handed down its largest fine ever ($350,000) to a company claiming that its paint had an R-value of 100.^[2]

So, the R-value Rule requires testing insulation using one of four American Society of Test Methods (ASTM) standards. The basic requirement is that the mean temperature must be 75° F (24° C) with a temperature difference of 50° F (28° C) across the insulation.^[3]

According to Building Science Corporation, most R-value testing is done with a temperature of 50° F (10° C) on the cold side and 100° F (38° C) on the hot side.^[4]

The Lowdown on R-value

The main point here is that R-value isn’t some constant number for a given material, and installation isn’t the only factor that affects it. As you can see above, temperature has a significant effect as well.

The team at The Green Cocoon knows that the performance of the insulation is affected by how well it is installed. Energystar.gov has developed guidelines for grading the quality of installation. Moreover, they’ve developed a table that shows what levels of insulation are cost-effective for different climates and locations in the home.^[5]

Compression

Improperly installed insulation loses its R-value. For example, fiberglass can lose up to 50 percent of its prescribed R-value when compressed. Additionally, when you compress fiberglass batt insulation, the R-value per inch goes up, but the overall R-value goes down because you have less inches or thickness of insulation.^[6]

Fear not, closed cell spray foam is the only insulation material that has an almost constant R-value. The reason is because you cannot pass air through it or compress it.

[1] Building Performance Institute (April 4, 2017). What Does R-Value Mean? Retrieved from bpihomeowner.org.

[2] FTC.gov (January 31, 2013). FTC Action Leads to Court Order: Home Insulation Marketer to Pay $350,000. Retrieved from ftc.gov.

[3] Electronic Code of Federal Regulations (March 31, 2020). R-value Rule. Retrieved from ecfr.gov.

[4] Building Science Corporation (April 12, 2013). Info-502: Temperature Dependence of R-values in Polyisocyanurate Roof Insulation. Retrieved from buildingscience.com.

[5] Energy.gov. Recommend Home Insulation R-Values. Retrieved from energy.gov.

[6] Insulation Institute. The Facts About Compressing Fiber Glass Insulation. Retrieved from insulationinstitute.org.

Understanding and Managing Thermal Bridging

R-Value, Thermal Bridging

When you are ready to insulate your living space, you may be contemplating what R-value you will need. And why not? It is the most widely accepted measure of insulation and often aligns with a minimum code requirement. But assuming that your wall assembly will realize the R-value of your insulation ignores a crucial variable in building science—thermal bridging. Understanding and managing thermal bridging will make your living space more comfortable. And, it will save you money!

What is thermal bridging?

Thermal bridging is when a particularly conductive (or poorly insulating) material allows heat flow across a thermal barrier. Physics dictates that hot wants to go to cold and a thermal bridge is a perfect invitation. The best analogy is to think studs within an insulated wall. The insulation on either side of a stud will do its job of limiting heat flow. But, the wooden stud, which has a much lower R-value, will not. These bridges can become expressways of heat loss.

How does this work in a home?

To understand and manage thermal bridging, let’s continue with the stud example. The typical R-value of a 2×4 wooden stud is 4.4, while the insulation on either side is much higher—typically greater than R13. The result of this bridge is heat being transferred and a significant loss in the wall’s effective R-value. In a wood stud wall with R20 insulation, thermal bridging can reduce the effective R-value to as low as R15. One of the worst thermal bridges is a metal stud. This can reduce effective R-value by as much as 80 percent. Along with studs, other typical building materials that create thermal bridges are metal fasteners, plates, headers, and windows. Typically, you can observe these all around a house—roofs, walls, fenestrations, for example.

The impacts of thermal bridging

If you are losing heat through thermal bridges, the efficacy of your climate control system decreases and uses more energy. Furthermore, these bridges can create cold spots within your walls where condensation can easily form. This moisture can produce a whole host of issues to the wall cavity—mold and mildew or rot, to name a few. Excessive moisture also challenges the structural integrity of your wall.

How do we prevent or limit thermal bridging?

Luckily advancements in building science and common sense can really help limit thermal bridging. Realistically, most homes will have some thermal bridging happening, but there are tools at our disposal to help prevent it.

Exterior insulation – According to Havelockwool.com, a better term would be “out-sulation.” This means that by wrapping the exterior of your home in insulation you can prevent (or dramatically reduce) the common thermal bridging via wall studs. Cork is a great option. You can spray foam the exterior, add rigid board or Rockwool as well.
Advanced house framing or Optimum Value Engineering – The goal of this building technique is to reduce lumber used in framing, which reduces thermal bridging. There are a lot of strategies incorporated, including spacing wall studs up to 24 inches on center, eliminating headers in non- load-bearing walls, designing on two-foot modules to make the best use of common sheet sizes, and to reduce waste.
Insulated studs – The company T Stud produces an R19 stud that is a thermally broken, insulated wall stud assembly. They also have the BareNaked Tstud™, which is an uninsulated, thermally broken wall stud that you can insulate with the insulation of your choice. These studs can not only reduce thermal bridging, but they are incredibly strong.
“Alternative” Wall Assemblies – Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs) are a common alternative to stick-built construction and can help limit thermal bridging. These panels have an insulated foam core between two rigid board sheathing materials, which when installed properly, can provide a continuous air and vapor barrier. There are issues, however, including the use of foam. Bamcore makes a bamboo wall system that is an environmentally friendly, extremely high-performance option.

Understanding and managing thermal bridging is easy

In conclusion, understanding and managing thermal bridging is a must because thermal bridging happens in every home. And, if you are constructing a new building, you can take care of that very easily. If you have older construction or renovation, you can use the best insulation possible in between the base to mitigate the amount of thermal bridging happening.

This article is based on an article from Havelockwool.com.

The Green Cocoon Offers Financing Through Hearth

Financing

The Green Cocoon (TGC) has partnered with Hearth, a San Francisco-based company offering various financing options that can save consumers thousands of dollars during their home renovations. TGC is working with Hearth to help you find financing options that best fit your needs.

Make smarter financial decisions

The new financing options help homeowners make smart financial decisions about their renovations. Also, they show homeowners how to craft an accurate budget for their remodels.

Helping you during this pandemic

“We learned about Hearth while researching financing companies,” said James Materkowski, owner and president of The Green Cocoon. “Offering financing, especially in the midst of a pandemic, allows a homeowner to pay for their project with predictable, monthly payments without tapping into the equity of their home.”

green-cocoon-insulation-me-spray-foam-technician

The new financial tool can check rates in under two minutes and loans are typically funded in one to five days. One exciting feature is the no prepayment penalty option. You can pay off the loan early with no additional fees! If you’ve been considering upgrading the insulation in your home, download our flyer to learn more about this exciting new financing option. Even though it is summer, now is the time to act. The cold months come in quickly and our schedule fills up! So, why not insulate and be warm this winter! Apply today!

VP Candace Lord Featured in Spray Foam Magazine

News, Team

Our VP Candace Lord was recently featured in “Spray Foam Magazine” in their Contractor’s Corner. The article was titled, “Butterfly: How the vice president of a Massachusetts-based SPF company used her strength and determination to prevail.”

Lord, who started as the office manager in 2011 running everything from the office to marketing and sales, was promoted to Vice President in 2018 and now focuses mainly on sales. She has a Bachelor’s Degree in Foreign Language from Northeastern University. Read the article.

Understanding Vapor Barriers

Insulation

In our line of work, we come across many “interesting” insulation jobs. But, before you start any project, understanding vapor barriers is a must. Thus, ensuring the insulation will be installed correctly.

Many homeowners want to save money, so they install insulation themselves. Additionally, homeowners hire licensed professionals who haven’t been educated on proper installation of insulation. But, the biggest mistake we see is people installing a double vapor barrier—installing a covering (usually plastic) over an already existing vapor barrier.

Understanding vapor barriers

“The function of a vapor barrier is to retard the migration of water vapor. Furthermore, vapor barriers are not typically intended to retard the migration of air. That is the function of air barriers.”[1]

Moreover, a vapor barrier is any material used for damp proofing, typically a plastic or foil sheet. Additionally, these sheets resist diffusion of moisture through the wall, floor, ceiling, or roof assemblies of buildings.[2]

What does a vapor barrier do?

Vapor barriers are installed along, in, or around walls, ceilings, and floors. Of course this is done to prevent moisture from spreading and potentially causing water damage. Additionally, a true vapor barrier is one that completely prevents moisture from passing through its material, as measured by the “moisture vapor transmission rate.” If the material has any porousness, but the barrier still provides protection from moisture, it is called a vapor diffusion retarder.[3] Furthermore, vapor retarders also are commonly referred to simply as vapor barriers. The barrier terminology is less accurate because, in most cases, the products don’t completely barricade the vapor.

What can I use as a vapor barrier?

There are a wide number of materials available to create effective vapor barriers, including:

Elastomeric coatings
Aluminum foil
Paper-backed aluminum
Polyethylene plastic sheet
Asphalt-coated Kraft paper
Metallized film
Vapor retarder paints
Extruded polystyrene or foil-faced foam board insulation
Exterior grade plywood
Sheet-type roofing membranes
Glass and metal sheets[4]

Where do I need a vapor barrier?

The IRC divides North America into eight climate areas. This is done for the purposes of determining when a vapor barrier might be needed in a building. Additionally, the IRC recommends builders install a Class-I or -II vapor barrier on the interior side of homes in climate zones 5 and above, and in the Marine 4 zone. However, if you air condition your house in the summer, you might trap condensation in your roof or walls for part of the year. If this is the case, be sure to use a Class-II vapor barrier on the interior of the wall. Moreover, you can use a Class-III vapor barrier on the interior. Pair that with spray foam insulation on the interior of the wall or roof. Furthermore, when building in hot, humid climates (zones 1 to 3), you should not have a vapor barrier on the interior side of the wall.[5]

Major Problem

Incorrect use of vapor barriers is leading to an increase in moisture-related problems. Vapor barriers were originally intended to prevent assemblies from getting wet. However, they often prevent assemblies from drying. In like manor, vapor barriers installed on the interior of assemblies prevent assemblies from drying inward. This can be a problem in any air-conditioned enclosure, below grade space, or a vapor barrier on the exterior. Additionally, a problem can occur where brick is installed over building paper and vapor permeable sheathing.[6]

Building in a Cold Climate While Adhering to Building Codes

Is a vapor barrier required in New England? Yes! Not to mention that as a builder your first step is to consult your local and state building codes. In many colder North American climates, vapor barriers are a required part of building construction.

You may find that vapor barriers are often not required in warmer climates. And, if installed in the wrong climate or on the wrong side of building materials, a vapor barrier can cause more harm than good. By the same token, this circumstance may prevent water vapor from drying, which in turn can cause rot and mold.[7]

If you don’t know the building requirements for your area, ask an expert!

Double Vapor Barrier – Don’t Do It!

What is a double vapor barrier? The insulation in Photo A was installed by an inexperienced insulation installer. Additionally, the brown paper on the fiberglass is a vapor barrier. By putting poly plastic over everything, the installers created a double vapor barrier. Not to mention that this type of installation creates future moisture, mold, and rot problems. Moreover, in Photo B the cellulose netting is not strapped and it is starting to sag. Furthermore, the staples are ripping out and the ceiling could come down at any time!

In conclusion, if you need insulation, call us and let us decide what type is best. Let us do the thinking for you!

[1] Building Science (2011). BSD-106: Understanding Vapor Barriers. Retrieved from buildingscience.com.
[2] Wikipedia (2019). Vapor Barrier. Retrieved from en.wikipedia.org.
[3] Energy.gov (2019). Vapor Barriers or Vapor Diffusion Retarders. Retrieved from energy.gov.
[4] Energy.gov. Vapor Barrier
[5] Fine Home Building (2009). How It Works: Vapor Drive. Retrieved from finehomebuilding.com.
[6] Building Science, BSD-106.
[7] IKO Commercial, (2019). An Introduction to Vapour Barriers and Vapour Retarders. Retrieved from iko.com.

Homeowners Beware: Isynene Spray Foam and Your Safety

Green, Insulation, Safety, Spray Foam

How safe is it to re-enter my home after installing Icynene® spray foam?

Homeowners and building managers often ask us about a product called Icynene, a liquid spray foam insulation. Icynene Inc. claims people can re-enter the building one hour after installation. We decided to investigate that claim for ourselves.

The Green Cocoon follows OSHA’s and the manufacturers’ guidelines when using spray foam insulation. Those guidelines state that re-entry should only happen 24 hours after installation has been completed.

Let’s Do Some Math

According to icynene.com, “Low VOC Icynene Classic Max and Icynene ProSeal spray foam products allow for re-entry after 1 hour and re-occupancy after 2 hours of active ventilation (at 40 ACH) following installation, allowing for minimal impact on construction schedules.”

Let’s have a look at 40 ACH (40 air changes per hour). Take a small, 2-story house that has a 24’ x 36’ footprint, which is 864 square feet. If we figure it has two stories at 8 feet tall, the basement is 8 feet tall, and the band joists are 1 foot tall, that’s an overall height of 25 feet.

Now let’s take the square footage (864 feet) times the overall height (25 feet) and you’ve got 21,600 cubic feet. When multiplied by 40 ACH, you will have to move 864,000 cubic feet of air in an hour!

If we take the cubic feet of air moved in an hour and divide it by 60 minutes, we calculate that we’ll need to move 14,400 cubic feet of air per minute. That takes some pretty big fans, but the average insulation company uses fans that move 2,500 cfm of air (like the one in the photo). That means that you have to have six of these fans running while you are spraying and you’ll need to leave them running for an hour once you finish spraying. And this is on a small house! The larger the house, the more fans you will need!

TGC regularly works on homes that would require 12 or more fans to hit the number. That is a lot of fans to purchase, set up, take down, and move around from job to job.

Safety First

Ask your contractor how many and what size fans they are planning to use if they install Icynene. We suggest you stop by the home and take a peek to make sure the contractor uses the right number of fans needed (see math above). Your safety should come first.

TGC chooses not to offer Icynene spray foam as Icynene reps are only allowed to spray Icynene. TGC is an independent spray foam insulation company, so we spray the product that we think is the greenest and safest for our customers. We don’t like to be pigeon-holed into using one product that might not be the best fit.

Before you purchase any spray foam insulation, get a second opinion from The Green Cocoon.

Hurricane Season Means It’s Time to Check the Roof!

Insulation, Weather

Every year as storm season rolls around, millions fear for the safety of their family as well as the safety of their home. Now, with Demilec USA’s Heatlok XT spray foam insulation, you can rest assured that your home is protected by the strength of a hurricane adhesive. It has been tested to have bonding strengths up to two times that of Florida’s code minimum! Heatlok XT can provide the following benefits to your home:

Reduce Storm Damage
Increases Wind Uplift Resistance
Create a More Solid Structure

Demilec USA’s Heatlok XT Spray Foam and hurricane adhesive product bonds the roof deck and trusses together. As a result, it meets and exceeds the requirements of the state of Florida, a state known for its destructive hurricanes (www.demilec.com).

The hurricane season in New England is defined as June 1 to November 30. However, 75 percent of the 40 tropical systems that have impacted our region in the past century have struck during the months of August and September. The last severe hurricane to hit Massachusetts was Hurricane Bob in August 1991. Bob, a Category 2 Hurricane, with winds between 91 and 110 mph, caused almost $1 billion in damage. Other hurricanes like Eduardo (1996), Bonnie (1998) and Bill (2009), threatened the Bay State, but veered out into the Atlantic as they traveled up the coast (www.mass.gov).

You worked hard to put the roof over your family’s head. Don’t let a storm carry it away! Give us a call and ask how you can get Heatlok XT in your home today!

Spray Foam and Metal Buildings

Insulation

To foam or not to foam. Why you might choose to use spray foam inside a metal building even though the interior is not heated or cooled.

One of our frequently asked questions is whether there is a benefit to spraying two or three inches of foam on the inside of a metal building, even though it is not going to be heated or cooled. The answer may surprise you.

Savings or Comfort?

Are you looking for savings or comfort? If a metal building is going to be air-conditioned (cooled) or heated, then we expect the building to be insulated. It is our job to help you save money by offering the best insulation possible. However, sometimes savings is not the key reason that you decide to buy spray foam insulation. Sometimes, it all comes down to comfort.

Baby It’s Hot in Here!

If the temperature outside is 100°F, then the outside skin of your metal building is going to be around 150°F. It won’t take long before the radiant heat from the metal skin radiates to the inside of the building.

Insulate with Spray Foam!

If you have high traffic in your building, or you plan to leave the doors open to allow large equipment to be moved, you may opt to not condition the structure. You may think it is a waste of time. But when you insulate the building on the inside, especially with spray foam, you create a radiant barrier— a barrier between the heat source and your living space.

In the south, for example, the inside temperature will remain around 100°F during the hottest part of the day, even after the sun goes down. The temperature will be pretty close to the outside roof deck. If you didn’t have that radiant break on the inside walls and underside of the roof deck, the radiant heat would come off of the metal and heat the space. Thus, you would get a hotter environment inside than the temperature outside because of the radiant load coming off of the roof deck.

You see this happen a lot inside attics, metal buildings, workshops, etc., where you don’t get consistent conditioning. If you have a radiant load that is building up and a surface that gets really hot, then it radiates some of that energy to the air inside the space.

If you have insulation questions, check out our Frequently Asked Questions page or contact us. We would be happy to help you!

Summer Safety Tip: Be “Fireworks Smart”

Safety

With the fourth of July weekend just around the corner, fireworks safety is very important. The Green Cocoon wants everyone to be safe this holiday season. Here is a summer safety tip, be “fireworks smart.” Follow these guidelines from the National Council on Fireworks Safety to ensure you use fireworks safely.

Stats to Consider for Fireworks Safety

In 2017, 8 people died and over 12,000 were injured badly enough to require medical treatment after fireworks-related incidents. Of these, 50% of the injuries were to children and young adults under age 20. Over two-thirds (67%) of injuries took place from June 16 to July 16. And while the majority of these incidents were due to amateurs attempting to use professional-grade, homemade, or other illegal fireworks or explosives, an estimated 1,200 injuries were from less powerful devices like small firecrackers and sparklers.

The National Safety Council advises the best way to safely enjoy this 4th of July is to watch a public fireworks display conducted by professionals. However, if fireworks are legal where you live and you decide to use them, be sure to follow these safety tips.

General Fireworks Safety Tips

Never allow young children to handle fireworks.
Older children should use fireworks only under close adult supervision.
Light fireworks outdoors in a clear area away from onlookers, houses and flammable materials.
Light one device at a time; maintain a safe distance after lighting.
Do not allow any running or horseplay while fireworks are being used.
Never ignite devices in a container.
Do not try to re-light or handle malfunctioning fireworks; douse and soak them with water and discard them safely.
Keep a bucket of water and hose nearby to fully extinguish fireworks that don’t go off or in case of fire.

“Fireworks Smart” Before, During, and After

The National Council on Fireworks Safety urges consumers to be “fireworks smart” – before, during, and after their fireworks display.

Before: Choose an open area away from spectators, homes, buildings, and dry vegetation. Use a garden hose to wet down the area before firing.
During: As each device burns out, soak it using a hose or bucket of water.
After: Place all used items in a covered, fireproof container and leave it outside and away from homes and buildings.

Special Safety Tips for Sparklers

Children under the age of 12 should not use sparklers without very close adult supervision.
Always remain standing while using sparklers.
Never hold a child in your arms while using sparklers.
Never hold or light more than one sparkler at a time.
Sparklers and bare feet can be a painful combination. Always wear closed-toe shoes when using sparklers.
Sparkler wire and stick remain hot long after the flame has gone out. Be sure to drop the spent sparklers directly into a bucket of water.
Never hand a lighted sparkler to another person. Give them the unlit sparkler and then light it.
Always stand at least 6 feet from another person while using sparklers.
Never throw sparklers.
Show children how to hold sparklers away from their body and at arm’s length.
Teach children not to wave sparklers, especially wooden stick sparklers, or run while holding sparklers.

Watch this informative video on Fireworks Safety.