If insomnia is a problem, maybe your bedroom is too hot or too cold. Both can affect sleep in surprising ways. Are you keeping your room too cool for comfort because your home costs a fortune to heat? Don’t lose sleep to save money! Contact us to find out how you can make your home more energy and cost-efficient.
How Air Temperature Affects Your Sleep
Experts agree the temperature of your sleeping area and how comfortable you feel in it affect how well and how long you snooze. Why? “When you go to sleep, your set point for body temperature — the temperature your brain is trying to achieve — goes down.” “Think of it as the internal thermostat.” If it’s too cold or too hot, the body struggles to achieve this set point. That mild drop in body temperature induces sleep. Generally, Heller says,“if you are in a cooler [rather than too-warm] room, it is easier for that to happen.” But if the room becomes uncomfortably hot or cold, you are more likely to wake up. He explains that the comfort level of your bedroom temperature also especially affects the quality of REM (rapid eye movement) sleep, the stage in which you dream.
What’s the Best Temperature for Sleeping?
Recommending a specific range is difficult because what is comfortable for one person isn’t for another. While a typical recommendation is to keep the room between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit, Heller advises setting the temperature at a comfortable level, whatever that means to the sleeper. There are other strategies for creating ideal sleeping conditions, too. Experts from the American Academy of Sleep Medicine, for instance, advise thinking of a bedroom as a cave: It should cool, quiet, and dark. (Bats follow this logic and are champion sleepers, getting in 16 hours a day.) Be wary of memory foam pillows, which feel good because they conform closely to your body shape — but may make you too hot. And put socks on your feet, as cold feet, in particular, can be very disruptive to sleep.
This is a great article about why over half the new homes in the USA are insulated with fiberglass batts.
“The big problem with fiberglass is that nobody understands how to properly install it to minimize air leakage. And if they do understand how to install it, they don’t want to spend the time and money doing it.
“So builders will happily keep building crappy walls that the wind can blow through because people can’t see it. They would rather sell visible performance, like windows and mechanical systems, because they can get real money for that.”
Read entire article from Treehugger.com, and then call us!
Insulation isn’t just for the winter months! Heating and cooling account for 50 to 70% of the energy used in the average American home. Inadequate (more…)
One question that we always get asked here at The Green Cocoon is, “What is the R.O.I. on insulation?” Consumers want to know if the upfront cost is worth it and more importantly, how long the payback will take. Let’s break this down and find out! Although energy costs vary per state, the average winter heating bill for oil and propane users is about $3,600.00 per year in New England (www.mass.gov/eea/energy-utilities…/household-heating-costs.html). The average monthly electric bill is around $94.00 (http://www.electricitylocal.com/states/massachusetts/), and much higher in the summer months due to the use of air conditioners. That comes to a moderate total of $4,720.00 annually. Some of our customers have seen reductions in their heating and cooling bills of upwards of 75%, but for the sake of this example, let’s just say that by insulating your home you save 25%. That is a savings of $1,182.00 per year! If the average insulation job for medium sized homes is around $6,000 (give or take a few thousand depending on size and material), it would take about 5 years to get the return on your investment. After that, you are pocketing an extra $1,182.00 per year. Think of all of the things you could do with that money! What does that money equal? Here’s what you can do with $1,182.00:
1) You can buy 2 months worth of groceries for a family of 4.
2) You could take a one week cruise to the Bahamas every year.
3) Fill the gas tank in your car for 6 months!
4) Invest it every year and after 30 years you would have over $84,000!
As you can see, insulation is well worth the investment. The question should not be “Can I afford it?” The question is, “How can you not?”
Don’t have the money upfront for insulation? Don’t wait to start saving. Ask us about our interest free financing options!
“Flash and batt” is a popular technique for insulating walls but if you are going to use this technique, make sure to start with at least 2 inches of closed cell foam first. A one inch “flash” is not enough to prevent condensation!
Energy upgrades and utility programs are all the rage, and rightfully so. With energy prices soaring and global warming on the rise it only makes sense to try to make our homes more energy efficient. Not only is it good for the environment but its good for the wallet as well! Most programs in our area rely heavily on dense pack cellulose insulation as their go-to insulation material. It’s inexpensive, ecologically friendly and effective- when installed correctly. Even in new construction, cellulose is widely used. But beware- the recommendations given by utility companies are not always the best or safest for your home.
Firstly, what is cellulose? Cellulose is recycled newspaper that is treated with boric acid. Boric acid acts as a pest repellent and a fire retardant. Unlike blown or batted fiberglass, mice and other rodents will most likely not nest in the cellulose due to the addition of this product. Because cellulose is made of paper it has 2 downfalls: 1- it will allow air to pass through it and 2- it is very likely to absorb moisture.
Airflow through cellulose is normally curtailed by the use of sheet rock and air sealing of penetrations. The exterior walls and ceilings of homes act as a natural air barrier allowing the cellulose to do its job as an insulator. Walls are nearly impossible to build without penetrations- it would be difficult to live without light switches and outlets! However, ceiling penetrations are completely optional and should be avoided at all costs. Air sealing penetrations is difficult and time consuming. Minimizing penetrations is the most energy efficient way to build. The addition of track lighting and other light sources in cathedral ceilings is a much more effective method.
Moisture is the single largest source of building failures. Keeping the house tight and dry is the number 1 goal of any good designer or builder. Because cellulose will allow moisture to pass through it is imperative that a vapor retarder is used. Warm, moist air rises inside a home and vapor drive and air pressure along with that air make vapor retarders in sloped and flat ceilings a necessity. In new construction a vapor retarder is required over any air permeable insulation and is required by code. In a retrofit (insulating an already existing and occupied home) properly installing a vapor retarder is nearly impossible in walls but because moisture is not as much of an issue in walls the insulation benefits greatly outweigh the possible problems. This benefit/problem ratio is not the same for sloped and flat ceilings however! Moisture is a much greater concern in these higher area where moisture tends to accumulate and where pressure is the greatest. If a vapor retarder is not used, moisture will pass through the cellulose and in cold weather will condense on the roof sheathing, causing mold and eventually rot. Here is an example of this:
Moreover, dense packing a sloped or cathedral ceiling can cut off existing ventilation to kneewall and attic spaces which violates building code. The only way to effectively dense pack these slopes is to install a minimum of 3 inches of rigid foam board insulation on the exterior of the roof (this will prevent condensation by increasing the temperature of the roof sheathing) or spraying 3 inches of closed cell spray foam on the underside of the roof deck before dense packing. This second option is more invasive as it would require the sheet rock to be removed in order to access the slopes. In new construction this is a widely used and easy insulation method.
In conclusion, dense packing existing exterior walls is an effective method to increase your homes efficiency but cathedral slopes and flat roofs should NOT be dense packed without first installing a proper vapor retarder. Ask an insulation professional, building science professional or HERS rater before deciding on an insulation material and method. What you do now will greatly effect the performance, comfort and safety of your home for years to come.
For more detailed information and for other great building science articles please visit https://buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-043-dont-be-dense. Photo Credits: Buildingscience.com